Street Fashion and High Fashion

1. Zoot suits


Zoot suits started during the 1920s and 30s among young Latino and Afro-Americans in Chicago and Los Angeles. After reaching mainstream status during the late 30s, it was abolished because of the textile restrictions of WWII.
A zoot suit (occasionally spelled zuit suit) is a suit with high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trousers, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders.



Dior Homme 2009 Fall




2. Teddy Boys
Teddy Boys were in England first in the 1950s and then the US. They were introduced by young middle- and lower-class youth as a rejection of the ultra-functionality of 50s fashion. Instead of the New Look, they favored Edwardian elegance.

1972: A group of teddy boys dancing at the London rock 'n' roll revival show in Wembley Arena.



Dior Homme 2006 Spring



3. Beatniks
The beatniks started in the 1940s in San Francisco among existentialist intellectuals and artists. It represented a philosophy of anti-materialism and was a direct inspiration for the hippies’ movement.
The style: men in their goatees and berets; women wore black leotards and kept their hair long, straight and matched with black turtlenecks and berets.

Young beatniks in London. 1960's


John Varvatos 2007 Fall

4. Mods
The mods started in England in the 1960s among the street savvy youth interested in rock-and-roll music. To differentiate themselves from the conservative adult culture, they favored vintage and colorful outfits, accessorized with long hair.



Mods was a distinctive movement in opposition to Rockers, who adapted an American style in the 60's. They represented a shift of an American to a European styling, seen in the cult of coffee bars and Italian fashion. Mods exuded streamlined, minimalist cool wear, with their stylish shirts and ties, short haircuts, Clarks suede desert boots, and Italian Vespa scooters. The green cotton parka is originally derived from American army uniform. [3]



Junya Watanabe 2006 Fall. millitary collection.

5. Hippies
In the 1960s, hippies appeared as an anti-war, anti-establishment movement in the US. Hippies favored flowing ethnic clothes, very long hair, and jeans. It is still a very influential style of life beyond fashion.


Fingers crossed … Neville and Ferrier in 1968.



John Galliano 2009 Spring

6. Disco
During the 1970s in the US, disco consisted of futuristic and synthetic colorful materials that translated into the multiform character of disco dancing.

London Boys, York, England — 8 July 1989

Dior Homme 2005 Spring

Dior Homme 2007 Spring

7. Punk
Punk was a representation of the alienation of life in large urban centers. Punk emerged in the late 70s in both Europe and the US. The look was achieved by pairing combat boots with tight jeans, oversized t-shirts, and outrageous hairstyles.

Vivienne Westwood at her 2010 spring collection

Dior Homme 2006 Spring


Comme des garsons 2006 Fall


8. Hip Hop

Punk was a representation of the alienation of life in large urban centers. Punk emerged in the late 70s in both Europe and the US. The look was achieved by pairing combat boots with tight jeans, oversized t-shirts, and outrageous hairstyles.

RUN DMC



Dsquared2 2009 Spring


9 Skateboard looks

Now day, I can see many skateboarders who express their looks.
The things I figured are that most young boarders like to wear low clutch pants and to wear sneakers with their tongues out of pants’ bottom. It looks similar with Hip Hop wear, but big differences is boarders like to wear low clutch skinny pants.



Miharayasuhiro 2008 spring

10 Japan Street Fashion

Japan street fashion is so much diverse and different from other countries’ fashion. Many prior fashions are mixed well. It’s hard to define what Japan street fashion is now. Many designers got inspirations from that fashion.

Yohji Yamamoto 2006 Spring, He mixed baseball uniforms and suits together.

[1] Module12
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit,, http://beerandnews.wordpress.com/page/16/
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2008MEN-CDMEN

[2] Module 12
http://www.gettyimages.com/detail/JD3714-001/Hulton-Archive
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2006MEN-CDMEN

[3] Module 12
http://www.topfoto.co.uk/gallery/HaroldChapman/ppages/ppage5.htm
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2007MEN-JVARVATOS/



[4] Module 12
http://www.kitchener.ch/html/en/fashion/special.php
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-JWMEN



[5] Module 12
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2009MEN-JGMEN
http://www.smh.com.au/news/film/hippie-hippie-shock-in-technicolour/2007/11/16/1194766964047.html


[6] Module 12
http://beninblack.com/BlogInBlack/Entries/2009/6/26_The_London_Boys.html
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2005MEN-CDMEN
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2007MEN-CDMEN


[7] Module 12
http://www.shoeseria.com/info/category/unusual-shoes/
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2006MEN-CDMEN
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2006MEN-CDGMEN



[8] Module 12
http://www.pastryshoescollection.com/2009/01/16/run-dmc-made-the-rock-and-roll-hall-of-fame/
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2009MEN-DSQUAREMEN


[9] http://www.alta.co.nz/brand/abc-board-company/skateboard-decks
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2008MEN-MIHAMEN


[10] http://www.fruits-mg.com/xnew/e/index.html
http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/S2006MEN-YYMEN

Fashion Influenced by historical artistic styles.

Baroque

Baroque was represented the religious and political struggles of the era through dramatic effects of light and shadow. The violence of the times and the existential uncertainties were symbolized by suffocating compositions, exaggerated poses, and theatrical backgrounds. In architecture The Baroque character was expressed in its corresponding costumes by adopting extravagant silhouettes, the use of contrasting colors and patterns, and voluminous accessories. Although there were some variations in style throughout the century, each of them used at least one overgrown element to destabilize the natural figure: high waistlines, huge falling collars and cuffs, or skirt-wide breeches. -Module 10

Louis Vuitton – FW 2009

http://www.style.com/community/lookbooks/view/mylookbook487674?iphoto=0

Gothic

The period during the Middle Ages that spans the 12th century to the beginning of the Renaissance is known as the Gothic era. As was the case during the rest of the Middle Ages, architecture was the most representative form of art. With the purpose of allowing more light, which symbolized the divine presence of God, Gothic architects created churches fashioned with huge stained glass windows and pointed arches. The general effect was that of ascending, monumental lace-like stone and colored glass structures. Likewise, Gothic silhouettes mirrored the sharp top spires of towers and arches by the adoption of tall conical hats (cornettes) for women and pointy shoes for men (poulains). Tight-fitting and draped sections were juxtaposed in the construction of garments to translate the contrast between hard stone and fragile glass in the cathedrals. Similarly, velvety textiles in dark tones translated the opacity of the tinted glass of stained-glass windows. – Module 10

Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
Alexander McQueen - Runway

http://www.style.com/community/lookbooks/view/mylookbook114121?iphoto=3

Surrealism

In fashion, Surrealism was about creating bizarre pairings of materials and objects in a garment or outfit. One of the most fertile sources of Surrealist shock was in delving into sexual repressions and the relationships people have with their bodies. For designers like Elsa Schiaparelli, clothes represented those paradoxical relationships by simultaneously hiding and revealing the body. She collaborated with Salvador Dali and Renee Magritte (two of the most iconic artists of the Surreal movement) in the creation of garments and fashion documentation. - Module 10

Aitor Throup , 2009
http://www.aitorthroup.com/

Pop art

Pop art motives are based on pop art printings or colors (neon) on garments. Many designers inspired pop artist such as Andy Warhol and Keith Haring. Here’s the garment that has Keith Haring paint.

Jeremy Scott X Keith Haring Collaboration
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3354/3424851429_58d872cdcb_o.jpg

Abstract Art

Abstract motives based on geometric shapes, bold primary colors, Op prints (from Optical Art, an Abstract art sub-category), and Abstract Expressionistic patterns appeared regularly in textiles from the 60s and 70s. Fashion designers of those decades captured the spirit of those complex times with fabrics based on abstract motives as well as with radically simple and unadorned silhouettes. –Module10

Yves Saint Laurant, 1965 ..... to .....Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, 2009
http://www.rugdesignblog.com/2009/04/art-to-runway-to-rug-mondrian-inspired.html

Conceptual

Conceptualist influences in contemporary fashion can be seen in the interest in textiles, embellishments, etc. beyond the way they visually look. Designers now want to make statements about social issues and styles of life. Fashion is not just about the look anymore; it is about choices, moral concerns, and the politics of dress. One of the most recognizable conceptual fashion tendencies is "Deconstructive Fashion" represented by designers like Martin Margiella, Rie Kawakubo, and Hussein Chalayan. – Module 10

Martin Margiela -S2010
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-MMARGIEL/?loop=0&iphoto=4&play=false&cnt=5

genealogy of T-shirt

The T-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century, through cutting the one-piece "union suit" underwear into separate top and bottom garments, with the top long enough to tuck under the waistband of the bottoms.

Source: http://www.squidoo.com/tshirtsfromzazzle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-shirt



By World War II both the U.S. Navy and Army included T-Shirt in their uniforms
as underwear.It became popular in the U.S.

Source : http://ussronquil.com/WWII/wwii.htm




Hollywood inevitably had the biggest impact on the classic tee. Up until the 1950's, t-shirts were still considered underwear, until Marlon Brando wore one in the 1951 movie 'Street Car Named Desire' and James Dean's unforgettable white tee in the 1955 movie 'Rebel Without a Cause', finally t-shirts achieved the status of being fashionable, stand-alone, outer-wear garments.

Source : http://jakedavis.typepad.com/jakedavis/2009/03/basics-white-tshirt.html
http://www.thehistorybluff.com/?p=1687



1970~80 Tied dying. silk printing on basic T-Shirts
http://www.artofthemix.org/FindAMix/getcontents2.aspx?strmixId=124286
http://www.ragnewyork.com/blog/new-york-clothing-trends




After 2000~
We can see T-Shirts in many fashion show. and many companies are making Printing T-shirts.(2006 Spring/ Ssummer Dior Homme, A Bathing APE (2009))

Source : http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/slideshow/S2005MEN-CDMEN/?loop=0&iphoto=1&play=false&cnt=2

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/slideshow/S2005MEN-CDMEN/?loop=0&iphoto=11&play=false&cnt=13
http://us.bape.com/

Historical Draped/Tailored Garments

1. Tailored Garments.

(1) Korean Traditional socks(About BC 1100)


Korean Traditional socks.
I learned that socks belong to tailored garments through this module. Korean traditional customs also are tailored custom. That is the reason why Korean traditional socks were.

http://www.danceholic.net/front/php/product.php?product_no=162&main_cate_no=85&display_group=1

(2)Japanese Traditional men’s custom(About



Japanese traditional customs are tailored garments. in case of Kimono, Japanese Traditional women’s custom is little bit puffy look, but It’s not draped style. It just emphasizes oversized body shape. In my opinion, I figured out that 3 countries; Korea, China and Japan influence garments or tailored patterns each other. Three countries are very close to affect or to be affected about their cultures and customs.

Description

This original old photograph is in fair condition with some scratches, stains, fading and discoloration. The subject of the photo is a man, possibly an actor, dressed in traditional Japanese garb and displaying a folding fan (sensu). The photo dates from the early to mid 20th century and was acquired in the historic city of Shizuoka, Japan near the foot of Mt. Fuji.


http://oldjapanphoto.wordpress.com/2008/02/21/vintage-japanese-photo-kimono-man-actor-posing-portrait/


(3)Aitor Throup



I think Aitor Throup is very talented with making sophisticated patterns and tailoring.
This picture is an excellent example for sophisticated tailoring.

2006,06 Young designer work in England, His nationality is Argentina.
http://www.aitorthroup.com/




2. Draped Garments

(1)Dhoti




This is Indian men’s custom. It’s similar with Sarong.
http://www.anthonychristian.co.uk/dhoti.jpg

(2)Lanvin Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear



Many designers like to use draped elements. I also could see this year collection from Lanvin.
At, this collection, most of clothes are tailored garments, but Alber Elbaz, Lanvin head designer show some of draped details and looks for to make that show more feminine.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-LANVIN

(3) Greek Toga



The toga is a cloak-like form of clothing associated with ancient Rome, where they were made out of wool and worn as a more formal sort of dress.

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/4733277/TogaIllustration-main_Full.jpg