Fashion Influenced by historical artistic styles.

Baroque

Baroque was represented the religious and political struggles of the era through dramatic effects of light and shadow. The violence of the times and the existential uncertainties were symbolized by suffocating compositions, exaggerated poses, and theatrical backgrounds. In architecture The Baroque character was expressed in its corresponding costumes by adopting extravagant silhouettes, the use of contrasting colors and patterns, and voluminous accessories. Although there were some variations in style throughout the century, each of them used at least one overgrown element to destabilize the natural figure: high waistlines, huge falling collars and cuffs, or skirt-wide breeches. -Module 10

Louis Vuitton – FW 2009

http://www.style.com/community/lookbooks/view/mylookbook487674?iphoto=0

Gothic

The period during the Middle Ages that spans the 12th century to the beginning of the Renaissance is known as the Gothic era. As was the case during the rest of the Middle Ages, architecture was the most representative form of art. With the purpose of allowing more light, which symbolized the divine presence of God, Gothic architects created churches fashioned with huge stained glass windows and pointed arches. The general effect was that of ascending, monumental lace-like stone and colored glass structures. Likewise, Gothic silhouettes mirrored the sharp top spires of towers and arches by the adoption of tall conical hats (cornettes) for women and pointy shoes for men (poulains). Tight-fitting and draped sections were juxtaposed in the construction of garments to translate the contrast between hard stone and fragile glass in the cathedrals. Similarly, velvety textiles in dark tones translated the opacity of the tinted glass of stained-glass windows. – Module 10

Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
Alexander McQueen - Runway

http://www.style.com/community/lookbooks/view/mylookbook114121?iphoto=3

Surrealism

In fashion, Surrealism was about creating bizarre pairings of materials and objects in a garment or outfit. One of the most fertile sources of Surrealist shock was in delving into sexual repressions and the relationships people have with their bodies. For designers like Elsa Schiaparelli, clothes represented those paradoxical relationships by simultaneously hiding and revealing the body. She collaborated with Salvador Dali and Renee Magritte (two of the most iconic artists of the Surreal movement) in the creation of garments and fashion documentation. - Module 10

Aitor Throup , 2009
http://www.aitorthroup.com/

Pop art

Pop art motives are based on pop art printings or colors (neon) on garments. Many designers inspired pop artist such as Andy Warhol and Keith Haring. Here’s the garment that has Keith Haring paint.

Jeremy Scott X Keith Haring Collaboration
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3354/3424851429_58d872cdcb_o.jpg

Abstract Art

Abstract motives based on geometric shapes, bold primary colors, Op prints (from Optical Art, an Abstract art sub-category), and Abstract Expressionistic patterns appeared regularly in textiles from the 60s and 70s. Fashion designers of those decades captured the spirit of those complex times with fabrics based on abstract motives as well as with radically simple and unadorned silhouettes. –Module10

Yves Saint Laurant, 1965 ..... to .....Agatha Ruiz De La Prada, 2009
http://www.rugdesignblog.com/2009/04/art-to-runway-to-rug-mondrian-inspired.html

Conceptual

Conceptualist influences in contemporary fashion can be seen in the interest in textiles, embellishments, etc. beyond the way they visually look. Designers now want to make statements about social issues and styles of life. Fashion is not just about the look anymore; it is about choices, moral concerns, and the politics of dress. One of the most recognizable conceptual fashion tendencies is "Deconstructive Fashion" represented by designers like Martin Margiella, Rie Kawakubo, and Hussein Chalayan. – Module 10

Martin Margiela -S2010
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2010RTW-MMARGIEL/?loop=0&iphoto=4&play=false&cnt=5

genealogy of T-shirt

The T-shirt evolved from undergarments used in the 19th century, through cutting the one-piece "union suit" underwear into separate top and bottom garments, with the top long enough to tuck under the waistband of the bottoms.

Source: http://www.squidoo.com/tshirtsfromzazzle
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-shirt



By World War II both the U.S. Navy and Army included T-Shirt in their uniforms
as underwear.It became popular in the U.S.

Source : http://ussronquil.com/WWII/wwii.htm




Hollywood inevitably had the biggest impact on the classic tee. Up until the 1950's, t-shirts were still considered underwear, until Marlon Brando wore one in the 1951 movie 'Street Car Named Desire' and James Dean's unforgettable white tee in the 1955 movie 'Rebel Without a Cause', finally t-shirts achieved the status of being fashionable, stand-alone, outer-wear garments.

Source : http://jakedavis.typepad.com/jakedavis/2009/03/basics-white-tshirt.html
http://www.thehistorybluff.com/?p=1687



1970~80 Tied dying. silk printing on basic T-Shirts
http://www.artofthemix.org/FindAMix/getcontents2.aspx?strmixId=124286
http://www.ragnewyork.com/blog/new-york-clothing-trends




After 2000~
We can see T-Shirts in many fashion show. and many companies are making Printing T-shirts.(2006 Spring/ Ssummer Dior Homme, A Bathing APE (2009))

Source : http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/slideshow/S2005MEN-CDMEN/?loop=0&iphoto=1&play=false&cnt=2

http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/complete/slideshow/S2005MEN-CDMEN/?loop=0&iphoto=11&play=false&cnt=13
http://us.bape.com/

Historical Draped/Tailored Garments

1. Tailored Garments.

(1) Korean Traditional socks(About BC 1100)


Korean Traditional socks.
I learned that socks belong to tailored garments through this module. Korean traditional customs also are tailored custom. That is the reason why Korean traditional socks were.

http://www.danceholic.net/front/php/product.php?product_no=162&main_cate_no=85&display_group=1

(2)Japanese Traditional men’s custom(About



Japanese traditional customs are tailored garments. in case of Kimono, Japanese Traditional women’s custom is little bit puffy look, but It’s not draped style. It just emphasizes oversized body shape. In my opinion, I figured out that 3 countries; Korea, China and Japan influence garments or tailored patterns each other. Three countries are very close to affect or to be affected about their cultures and customs.

Description

This original old photograph is in fair condition with some scratches, stains, fading and discoloration. The subject of the photo is a man, possibly an actor, dressed in traditional Japanese garb and displaying a folding fan (sensu). The photo dates from the early to mid 20th century and was acquired in the historic city of Shizuoka, Japan near the foot of Mt. Fuji.


http://oldjapanphoto.wordpress.com/2008/02/21/vintage-japanese-photo-kimono-man-actor-posing-portrait/


(3)Aitor Throup



I think Aitor Throup is very talented with making sophisticated patterns and tailoring.
This picture is an excellent example for sophisticated tailoring.

2006,06 Young designer work in England, His nationality is Argentina.
http://www.aitorthroup.com/




2. Draped Garments

(1)Dhoti




This is Indian men’s custom. It’s similar with Sarong.
http://www.anthonychristian.co.uk/dhoti.jpg

(2)Lanvin Spring 2010 Ready-to-Wear



Many designers like to use draped elements. I also could see this year collection from Lanvin.
At, this collection, most of clothes are tailored garments, but Alber Elbaz, Lanvin head designer show some of draped details and looks for to make that show more feminine.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2010RTW-LANVIN

(3) Greek Toga



The toga is a cloak-like form of clothing associated with ancient Rome, where they were made out of wool and worn as a more formal sort of dress.

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/4733277/TogaIllustration-main_Full.jpg

I was also little bit confused that 1 image for each 6 functions of dress or one image that relates to all of the 6 functions of dress. However, I am going to try to make both of ways.

1. Environmental Protection
Primitive people used animal skins to create their garments. They tried to make those garments better to protect from coldness or injury risks. The purpose of the garments at this time is survival. Firm of garments is more important than design shape of them, but now we are using

garments such as parkas, jumpers and gloves to protect from coldness, and we are consider designing, too.

(1) http://www.moncler.it/oncler.it/ Pink Parker by Moncler, Gamme rouge 2009.

2. Decoration
This is a Korean traditional garment called ‘Hanbok’. In Addition, the garment is for wedding ceremony of Queen. That custom has so many embroidery and gold beads for decoration. It could be also represented that ‘ceremonialism’ and ‘gender differentiation’.

Miss Universe Korea, Honey Lee worn Hanbok.

(2). http://k-popped.com/2007/10/honey-lee-in-korean-traditional.html

3. Gender Differentiation


Men’s suit is distinguishable from women’s wear.

(3).Alexander McQueen’s 2009 men’s wear.
http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2010MEN/complete/slideshow/AMCMEN?loop=0&event=&designer=AMCMEN&trend=&slideshowId=slideshow57580&iphoto=1&play=false&cnt=28

4. Group Membership

Garment affect to make group or to empower membership. For example, there are school uniforms and garments that particular groups or teenagers are wearing commonly for to show people their desiring identity.

leighton meester in a shool uniform , drama ' Gossip girl'

(4). http://www.fashionfile.com/blog/1.%20SCHOOL%20UNIFORM%202.jpg

5. Ceremonialism
Each country has own traditional wedding ceremony and that of customs. However, each ceremony has a rule that how to and what kind of garments have to wear at ceremony.

Golden wedding Japanese emperor
In this photo released by the Imperial Household Agency of Japan on the day of the wedding, April 10, 1959, Japanese Crown Prince Akihito and his bride Michiko Shoda pose in the ceremonial robes they wore during a wedding ceremony in the Imperial Palace in Tokyo several days before their wedding.

(5). http://gpdhome.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341c648253ef0115700f4eb4970b-400wi

6. Sexual Enhancement

Miss Universe Japan 2009 Emiri Miyasaka
She worn transformed Kimono that has a garter belt, stocking and panties
(6) http://www.88news.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/Miss-Universe-Japan-Emiri-Miyasaka-kimono1.jpg

Alexandre Herchcovitch

That show is my second favorite show. Actually, I was not interested in his design styles and material. I usually love to use leather, wool, and cotten. However, I like that the garments seemed to have one theme and and seemed like he had intended to use particular appoach with his design. He played with the elememts that is from his inspiration, foolball. that was also interested for me. He show us ball's shape through his dresses and also tried to show uniform style. I am not sure what he used for that uniform garment. I think that is made of common sports jersey which we can easily see the foolbool uniform. I was shocked and I started wondering why he used same material for his garment. He said that uniforms are important in this sport," he said. "They transform the shape of a man, and this amazed me." Herchcovitch played shape-shifter, too, closing his show with theatrical caged numbers that referenced both the grille on football helmets and nineteenth-century cage skirt hoops. I want to apprise him for his brave behavior that I can't do

New York Fashion Week.

I like 3.1 Phillip Lim show. He prove that he can play with special pattern. first garment on the runway seemed like jumpsuit, but they are top and pants. he said that you might have mistaken it for a jumpsuit, but that's because the jacket was unlined and light enough to be tucked in. Lim called it "the new suit." It's machine-washable. That's surprised at me. I love playing with pattern and making new style. well ... Most designers eager to do that work. Colors( mainly red grey, brown, black) are matched well and enough to explain his color story. I really enjoyed that show.

Kanye West Inspires Fake Louis Vuitton Handbags

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